Creative Direction: Interview With Fashion Designer Ron Louis

Creative Direction: Interview With Fashion Designer Ron Louis

We’re kicking off our new Creative Direction interview series with Ron Louis, an up-and-coming fashion designer that you should definitely get acquainted with.

Matt DeSciora

Above portrait photo of Ron Louis by Jaylen Prater

A new year calls for changes to the Stadium Goods Journal. In the past we’ve celebrated Black History Month by interviewing up-and-coming Black creatives as part of our New Black History series, but this year we’re doing things a little bit differently. We’ll be interviewing sneaker-adjacent creatives all year long, in a series we’re calling Creative Direction, in an effort to shine a light on the folks creating and pushing our culture forward, because without them, sneakers would be a lot less interesting, to say the very least.

Since we’re in Black History Month right now, we wanted to start off our new interview series by talking to Black creatives. One of the first people we thought of to talk to was Ron Louis, a Chicago-based fashion designer who is known for creating some of the most unique looks in streetwear at the moment. He also knows a thing or two about sneakers, having created several custom colorways of the Nike Air Force 1 and other models over the years.

If you’re not completely familiar with Ron or his work, then this interview will get you up to speed on one of Chicago—and streetwear’s—next up-and-coming designers. Ron’s story is an inspiring one, which is why we couldn’t be more excited for him to share his stories with our readers about designing clothes for hip-hop star King Louie, being mentored by the late, great Virgil Abloh, and more.

First things first—who is Ron Louis?

Just a guy, (laughs.) No, I am a designer from Chicago who aspires to showcase my art to the world.

How did growing up in Chicago not only influence you as a person, but as a fashion designer?

Chicago is a beautiful place with a lot of beautiful things and many beautiful people. My upbringing was great in spite of the environment around me. I knew I wanted more for myself and family, so I’d like to think that coming from a tough environment gave me the motivation to work hard. I saw the beauty in the struggle, and the streets taught me to pay attention to the small things in order to survive. My attention to detail transferred into design and the feeling of needing to do that to survive remains.

Let’s backtrack for a moment. What was your introduction to fashion, and what made you decide that you wanted to become a fashion designer?

By accident. I originally pursued art [in high school] but because someone I was interested in had transferred out of the class and into clothing construction, I went down that route instead. I went to my counselor and lied about not feeling challenged by the art class and asked to be transferred to the clothing construction class that she was in. I got transferred out and would speed through the assignments to talk to her, but my teacher noticed I had a knack for sewing and pulled me to the side and said I should take her class seriously. I took her advice and made my first pair of pajama pants from scratch and gave them to my best friend at the time. The way her face lit up from me giving her something I made from scratch became a feeling I fell in love with and it’s been history ever since.

Talk to us about your big break in fashion. I read somewhere that one of your first big opportunities came when a certain well-known Chicago hip-hop artist wore something you designed. How did that come about?

Dreezy actually connected me with everyone in the music scene! She had a music video featuring King Louie and asked me to make clothes for them to wear in it. Louie was super hot at the time and posted himself in one of the T-shirts I made and it went viral.

Ron Louis x Wind and Sea Collaboration - Photographer: Chris Bain

How has working with Dreezy and Valee influenced your work?

Man! Watching those two work closely at different points of times of my career was crucial. I’ve been influenced by their work ethic and the way they navigate [through life] having a level of notoriety and success.

What went into creating your clothing brand, Phera? And you eventually transitioned to naming your label after your own name, correct? What led to that decision?

My original idea was to separate my custom work from my brand work. Honestly, I didn’t use my name out of insecurity in case it flopped—my thought was that I could just rebrand if it did, but I wouldn’t be able to do so as easily if the brand was self-titled. After a while, I noticed the brand was confusing to some, and realized the doubt I had at the start of creating the brand wasn’t the right mindset to have. So I changed my perspective on who I was/am as a designer. What I have to offer to the world is enough, so owning my name solidifies that.

Ron Louis Nylon Shorts - Photographer: Bianca Garcia

What is your creative process like when it comes to designing new products?

It depends on what it is. Sometimes a textile or material tells me what it wants to be. My favorite thing to do is to edit something that I believe is already perfect and own it with a tweak. I consider myself an artist, and garments are the canvas. Take the Nike Air Force 1 that I designed, for example. When I dyed them the “Ice Blue” colorway, I used a high-top version and took the strap out with a kiss of color. I laced them how I lace my sneakers and gave it to the world.

Now, I use that same “Ice Blue” color in most of my designs to draw my audience's attention to something that I personally pay attention to. Typically, it’s the hardware and small details, but it brings people into my world and gives them my perspective on how I see things. I also think about a product's function, as well as what problem it solves or enhances. I keep that in mind when designing a new product. If I feel strongly about it and my team is excited, then we give it to the world.

Dip-Dyed Salomon sneakers by Ron Louis

Chicago is known for its creatives in the fashion industry, from the late Virgil Abloh to Don C to Joe Freshgoods to, of course, Kanye West. Have any of those or other folks from Chicago influenced you in any way?

Absolutely, it’s impossible to not be influenced by them whether you are conscious of it or not. Those guys and many others laid the foundation for me to get to where I am today, and I thank them for that. I had the chance to build a personal relationship with Virgil and I can honestly say it was the first time I felt seen. I was close to giving up around the time we connected, which is something that no one really knew about, but he came around right on time and put the battery in my back to carry on. I’ve always resonated with his work and understood what it was that he was doing and I can’t thank him enough for just…existing.

Switching gears, what does Black History Month mean to you?

A reminder for me of how my ancestors paved the way and fought long before I arrived. I can’t put into words how sacred it feels to carry on for the ones who died for us.

How would you say you are creating “New Black History” with your career?

By just that—carrying on and pushing beyond my limits and resources and sharing my work as I grow. We have to pay it forward so that the next generation will continue the legacy and continue to make history.

You have a lot to be excited about right now. What are some of your goals for this year, and beyond?

For sure. Honestly, the biggest goal I have for myself right now is to remain focused on myself. None of my goals this year are tangible—it's the inner work that I am focused on. I meditate every day and it has opened up a new world for me. Meditating keeps me present and I can feel myself being in a constant flow of creativity. I am letting go and seeing where it takes me.

Ron Louis Glacier Link Chains - Photographer: theoxproject

Is there anything else you would like to tell us about? Any upcoming projects you’d like to plug before we sign off?

I like to keep the people guessing…

Where can people find your work?

You can find me on Instagram @ron_louis and on Twitter @ ronlouis_.

Most of my work is posted on www.supplylocale.com. More to come.

Ron Louis Custom Levi’s Jeans - Photographer: Jaylen Prater